I've recently finished this long-running project and wanted to do a write-up in case anyone else was interested. There was a lot of trial and error wrong parts and wasted effort involved for me which I'm boiling down to just the finished product.

Why an EWP? In theory... Belt driven accessories are rotating mass and have a lot of inertia resisting acceleration and deceleration: removing them should improve throttle response. Most of the energy used recirculating water is wasted; an electric pump will only flow coolant at the rate necessary no faster. That said I mostly did it because I could. The fan conversion is just so the same microcontroller will drive everything but it's probably safe to leave the fans stock since they're driven independently based on temperature in the radiator outlet.

This car has no A/C or power steering. Some of the smaller coolant lines like the one inside the pcv pipe and throttle body are deleted (I don't recommend you do this is you live anywhere cold crankcase vapor can condense into a liquid at low temperatures and frost can build up inside the throttle body because of the drop in air pressure across the throttle).

Parts needed:

- Davies-Craig EWP 115 and controller kit.

- Davies-Craig 10" electric fan kit.

- 1.5" to 1.25" reducing silicone elbow.

- 19.5" long reducing radiator hose 1.5" to 1.25" (Dayco part number DAC-81091)

- 1.25" diameter aluminum hose joiner

- 2 hose clamps for 1.25" hose but you'll probably want extras

- original gaskets or silicone rtv (mega grey)

- 3 M8x16mm-1.25 flange bolts

- OPTIONAL: 3 M8x30mm-1.25 flange bolts if your old ones are rusted badly.

- 2 longer M8x??mm-1.25 flange bolts from right side of water pump I'm sorry I don't remember the length they're both different from anything else. You'll have to improvise.

- metal plate to block off hole left by deleted water pump.

That last one is tricky I had one machined for me out of 0.25" thick 6061 aluminum plate. You can make your own using just some plate and a dremel if you're cheap but a properly machined part will look nicer.

Began by removing the belts and water pump pulley.

My old water pump was seized. Here's what they look like for the curious. Surprisingly the inner ball bearings were in great shape but the outer bearing with the rubber seals and stuff was jammed up on a tensioning spring.

The blockoff plate goes in where the water pump did using rtv gasket. For those of you retaining heat and PCV warming you never need to remove the flange on the front like I did. The 1.25" end of the flex radiator hose attaches to the bottom inlet on the flange. The other end attaches to the EWP down next to the block.

The silicone reducing elbow needs to be trimmed a little on the 1.5" side and then clamped to the inlet of the EWP. Then add the 1.25" hose joiner cut the radiator return line to the right length and hook it up. I'll post some decent pictures of this later.

On my car I removed the thermostat and rely entirely on the microcontroller to determine coolant flow. If you're keeping your heat and pcv warmer you absolutely do not want to do this.

The water pump controller uses its own temperature sensor. I installed mine where the AC thermoswitch used to be which is made possible by the lack of a thermostat. If you're keeping the thermostat you'll need to pick a mounting location BEFORE the thermostat to mount the temp sensor or else the pump will never detect how hot your coolant is getting. Davies-Craig recommends the thermostat housing itself you may be able to pick somewhere less destructive. TODO add a pic for this.

(Optional you can keep stock fans if you want.) The stock radiator fan is held in by two screws at the top. Remove those and then just pull up it really only rests on the third bottom screw. Follow the instructions that came with the fan for downstream mounting and then attach it to the radiator.

Last step is the wiring which the pump and fan do a good job explaining. I have a stripped car and mounted a racing switch panel on the exposed dash-beam but you can do a perfectly unobtrusive install in a stock car. The controller and fan need an always-on connection to battery and the controller needs one wire connected to source that's only on when the car is running. There are a number of locations you could choose for this. My switch panel is clearly overkill but fun.

Yes it works. I daily drive this car.

Good job with the EWP mod. I wonder what the long-term reliability of the Davies-Craig (made here in Ozzieland!) or similar electric water pumps is compared to the standard mechanical water pump setup?

I've looked at replacing the Bosch fans with DCSL fans (probably the 12" size) but wouldn't want to run bolts through the core of the radiator like you did.

I've pulled AC from my 81 turbo car (and from the red 89 900i before I pranged and wrote it off in Feb - that car is now gone and I never got it from auction) but my 91 2.1 car (currently with the dead cylinder head off waiting for replacement to be sorted out) has AC.

What made you decide to delete the cabin heating etc.?

Craig.

Original pump lasted nearly a quarter million miles and even then would have been possible to repair. I doubt I'll get that out of the DC. Saab did some things very right with these cars.

Reusing stock fans with new relay and controller wasn't possible because stock fans used a 30 amp instead of 10 amp fuse the new electronics can't supply enough power.

It's definitely faster than stock but it was a very cumulative effect. Removed A/C after it stopped working then same for the PS (leaking) then stripped the interior then the water pump conversion. Removing weight made the most difference but each step was definitely noticeable. Biggest difference after doing water pump is high-end power doesn't seem to fall off like it used to. Old pump was seized though so ymmv.

Used to do track days in my Viggen but it's retired (ate too many brakes tires drank too much gas). I do lemons races and track days in a Miata now but want to get into rally. Just for fun not taking it too seriously. Two wheel open heavy class allows all this kind of mod.

Think the pump and controller was $440 and the fan was $120. Aluminum plate is cheap if you get just material. Hoses and joiners are a few bucks each bolts are cheap. Around $600? I can think of better upgrades for the money. If it cost half that much I'd definitely recommend it.